The most common (tall) Dendrobiums are really not good for under fluorescent lights. They’re too tall to be close enough to the bulbs to get the intensity of light they need. The mini’s (under about 12") may work. The ones I’ve had the most success with are the Phalaenopsis, Paphiopedilum, the lower-light mini Catts, and some Phragmipediums. All of the above need to be no more than 24" below the bulbs, with the Catts really needing to be within just a few inches of the bulbs. This is easiest with a hanging fixture where you can adjust the length of the chains, or on a light stand where you can space the shelves the way you want it. If it’s a ceiling fixture, I’d suggest starting with Phals, though even they may need supplemental light to bloom. Phals typically bloom in either summer or winter, if you time it, you can often have year-round bloom with just a few big healthy plants. Phal equestris and its hybrids have a long bloom period even for Phals, as does Doritis (Phalaenopsis?) pulcherrimia and its hybrids.
Another one for low light is the tropical terrestrial Ludisia discolor- prized for its foliage, and its brief flush of little white spires around late winter- but the leaves are gorgeous year-round.
Check the humidity in your office (a cheap- $20- hygrometer is a good investment for an orchid grower). HVAC systems are notorious for drying out already dry winter air, and if the humidity drops too low while your orchids are budding or blooming, it could kill the flowers. You may want a humidifier (and your skin will be happier, too!)
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1800orchids.com will help you out
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dope
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Dendrobium,and Phalanopsis orchids
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The most common (tall) Dendrobiums are really not good for under fluorescent lights. They’re too tall to be close enough to the bulbs to get the intensity of light they need. The mini’s (under about 12") may work. The ones I’ve had the most success with are the Phalaenopsis, Paphiopedilum, the lower-light mini Catts, and some Phragmipediums. All of the above need to be no more than 24" below the bulbs, with the Catts really needing to be within just a few inches of the bulbs. This is easiest with a hanging fixture where you can adjust the length of the chains, or on a light stand where you can space the shelves the way you want it. If it’s a ceiling fixture, I’d suggest starting with Phals, though even they may need supplemental light to bloom. Phals typically bloom in either summer or winter, if you time it, you can often have year-round bloom with just a few big healthy plants. Phal equestris and its hybrids have a long bloom period even for Phals, as does Doritis (Phalaenopsis?) pulcherrimia and its hybrids.
Another one for low light is the tropical terrestrial Ludisia discolor- prized for its foliage, and its brief flush of little white spires around late winter- but the leaves are gorgeous year-round.
Check the humidity in your office (a cheap- $20- hygrometer is a good investment for an orchid grower). HVAC systems are notorious for drying out already dry winter air, and if the humidity drops too low while your orchids are budding or blooming, it could kill the flowers. You may want a humidifier (and your skin will be happier, too!)
Reply